All Saints Day

November 5th was a holiday here in Sweden called Allhelgonahelg, All Saints. Here's a summary of what All Saints Day is all about:

While the saints of the Christian church have been celebrated on this day since the 8th century - when the sheer quantity of saints made it impossible for each to have his or her own day - Lutheran churches have used the day to remember the dead.

The day is more commonly celebrated in Catholic countries, but the grip the tradition has on the Swedish is firm. 

For many, Friday is a half day and on Saturday morning the main newspapers are not printed. As dusk falls on Saturday, All Saints Day, Swedes stream towards the country's graveyards armed with candles, matches, wreaths and flowers for the graves of their loved ones.

The beauty of the candlelight blended with a soothing melancholy creates an emotionally-charged atmosphere. Small rural churchyards are visible across fields, dotted with flecks of golden light, while in towns and cities people murmur hushed greetings to those visiting neighbouring graves.

Probably the most spectacular place to witness the festival is the massive cemetery of Skogskyrkogården in the south of Stockholm. Chatty crowds drift from the train station, past hot dog vendors and candle stalls, as if to a football match.

But as they enter the cemetery they are greeted not with the roar of a stadium but with a silence almost as overwhelming. Thousands upon thousands of marshal lights line the winding road into the churchyard, the glare becoming more and more intense until at the top of the hill in the centre there is barely space to walk between the rows of candles.

It is an awe-inspiring sight, but here and there real mourners, perhaps remembering a loved one for the first time, are a reminder of the day's meaning.

Despite the ancient origins of the festival itself, the tradition of lighting a candle is relatively recent. It began only in the early 1900s and it was not until after the Second World War that it became a national activity.

Today, it is more popular than ever, perhaps reflecting a desire among Swedes to maintain their ties with the past in a fast-changing world. (Source: http://www.thelocal.se/2427/20101105/) 

 We celebrated All Saints at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Skogskyrkogården. I was not very excited about this holiday, it seemed a little bit strange to me to visit a cemetery where I felt no connection. But we went with Lisa, Olov, and Jane and I'm so glad we did. It was a really great experience and all the candles were so overwhelmingly beautiful and yet very somber. The Swedes do not talk about death or afterlife, it's a very taboo subject and yet they have a holiday specifically to reflect on mortality. This is definitely a worth while activity to partake in when in Sweden. Dale and I might even try to import it to the States, who knows! Anyway, here are my pictures from this years All Saints Day, including one really cute one of little Jane admiring Greta Garbo's grave.

Love Always,
Matilda

Systembolaget Surprises

Sweden has a state controlled monopolistic alcohol system called 'systembolaget'. It's the only place you can get alcohol, they tax you a whole lot on the purchase, and the stores have really limited hours. All of which do successfully reduce the purchase and consumption of alcohol. But on a recent trip to the systembolaget I handed over my id out of habit from the good old US of A and was surprised to be given a reward for my good behavior. (Only in Sweden right?!) Here's what I got:

As soon as I was home and snapped a picture to share with you all I opened the goodies up to figure out just what the heck they were. It turns out the tin is mints and the cards are some sort of brain puzzles for which my Swedish is not goon enough to use.

This one definitely falls into the more unusual and surprising things I've encountered in Sweden.
Love Always,
Matilda

The best hot dog stand in Stockholm

Stockholmers love their hot dogs or as they call them korv med bröd and there is no shortage of hot dog stands through out the city to stop and grab a quick snack at. But if you are looking for the best dang hot dog stand in all of Stockholm, then read on! The best hot dog stand in Stockholm is, not surprisingly really, located in the fanciest part of town, Östermalm. But the stand itself is not too boisterous. 

See, just your average looking food stand but the queue lets you know this place is worth the wait! Not only do they have your average hot dog but this stand also has hot dogs and sausages from all around the world. With so many choices I'll have to return soon to sample a different tempting flavor.

Dale got a Polish sausage and I opted for an Argentine Chorizo. Both were quite tasty! The sausage comes stuffed in french bread with 'American Sauce' (which I think is thousand island dressing) and sauerkraut. 

So, the next time you are in need of a protein fix in Stockholm now you know where to go: Östermalms Korvspcialist!
Love Always,
Matilda

Art Appreciation

I've been wanting to visit the Moderna Museet and when the announced their current exhibition, Turner, Monet, Twombly, I knew it was time to go! Dale was also interested so as soon as we had a free day we went. It just happened to be a grey cold day so I guess everyone else had the same idea, the museum was packed! Despite how busy it was, we still had a great time perusing the paintings. We took advantage of the free audio guide and it really added a lot of depth to the exhibit. If you plan to go I highly recommend using the audio guides! This was certainly one of the best laid out exhibits I've ever seen. I told Dale I felt this way and he said, "Would you expect anything less from Sweden?" True Dale. Sweden does know 'where it's at'. (Do the kids even say that anymore?)

Anyway, my favorite piece was by Twombly, 'Untitled, 2007':

And Dale was really digging Monet, 'San Giorgio Maggiori at Dusk, 1908':

Once we finished the exhibit we stopped in the cafeteria for a bite to eat. I was so excited to see they had Pumpkin Soup on the menu, I have been having pumpkin withdrawals. The pumpkin soup did not disappoint either. It was the right combination of creamy and spicy. Yum yum!  

Feeling full of food and art, we left the museum and began the trek home. But we walked for a little bit because we hadn't been on the island of Skeppsholmen yet. We found a free art exhibit just outside the museum! Sculptures in a park on the center of the island.

You never know what you'll find in Stockholm!

Love Always,

Matilda

A jaunt in the Archipelago

For my last day with Jenny we went on a jaunt in the archipelago. It was a rainy day in Stockholm but luckily once we got out in the archipelago a little bit it cleared up - and we warmed and dried up from getting rained on! Here are some pictures from our 3 hour ride through the middle archipelago. I trip out in the archipelago is a must in Stockholm, it's so pretty and calm out there.

Thank you so much for visiting Miss Jenny! It was soo soo great to see you and shop our little hearts out! I cannot wait until we can get together again sister-wive! ;)

Love Always,

Matilda

Cliff Barns Convos

As soon as Dale was back from his trip all three of us went out for a cocktail at Cliff Barns, a bar just a block from our house.

We were all smiles and had fun picking out a fancy cocktail. Swedes aren't particularly cocktail people so it wasn't very Swedish of us but it was still fun. The Swedes typically stick to beer year round or Champagne and Rose in the Summer and Red or White in the Winter.

After the girliest of girly drinks, made with fresh squeezed kiwi!, we headed back home where we had a good long chat into the wee hours of the night.

Love Always,
Matilda

Strolling around Brunnsviken

Ok, it's not always grey in October, we did manage to get a really great weather day. To take advantage we decided to go for a stroll around Brunnsviken, a lake just a block from my house and about 13 km/8 miles around.

The trees were in prime foliage and there were swans and ducks out enjoying the sun as well. 

There is nothing more relaxing for me than being near water and this was no exception. A stroll around Brunnsviken always soothes the soul.

Love Always,
Matilda

Fotografiska Fika

The next adventure with Miss Jenny was to the Fotografiska Museet, the photography museum, to see the Mapplethorpe exhibit.

Fotografiska is a nice museum on Södermalm which only houses photography exhibits (my favorite!) and mostly focuses on housing special exhibits. The Mapplethorpe exhibit was very well done and really interesting. I had heard of Mapplethorpe but wasn't familiar with his work it was nice to learn more about him. After we were finished with the exhibit we went to the top floor cafe for fika.

Not only does there cafe have really great pastries and hot cocoa's but the view is quite easily the best in the city. (FYI: You have to pay entrance to the museum to go to the cafe)

How could you not enjoy taking this in? Really, I don't believe I actually live here. Stockholm is so beautiful all times of the year.

Everyone else was enjoying the view too.

Once we finished up we enjoyed the view in the elements for a bit longer before meandering home through the streets window shopping. Days with your best friend are difficult ;)

Love Always,
Matilda

Jenny Benny

I recently had the supreme pleasure of Miss Jenny Benny visiting and the visit just happened to fall on dates when Dale was gone so it was the ultimate girls only vacation. Technically I wasn't on vacation but I didn't have to work so I'll count it. 

We were good little tourists and spent one day just walking through the main parts of the city from Vasastan through T-Centralen to Gamla Stan. 

We had fun perusing the flea market at Hötorget although the only thing we bought was candied almonds. Those candied almonds were quite delicious though.

It was a grey fall day, although that seems to be the norm these days. Behind the leaves is the Grand Hotel which is where the Nobel Prize dinner is held on December 10th. I will be sure to stop by then to see if I can spot anyone important. (I'm not sure I would recognize anyone though, ha!)

I have been surprised at how much foliage Sweden has and just how long the beautiful colors have lasted. More on that later, but it was a beautiful day to explore the city, take in the sights, and have girl time with my  girl Jenny!
Love Always,
Matilda

Cupcake STHLM

I think the whole world agrees that cupcakes could easily be one of the best things Americans have invented. Overstatement? I think not! Who doesn't love a good cupcake?! So when I learned Stockholm had their own cupcakery I knew I had to check it out. Cupcake STHLM is a delightful and cozy little shop and I just love their branding and packaging.

They have quite the assortment of mini and regular sized cupcakes. Almost all of which have a Swedish flare which from the cute Swedish paper cups or the salt licorice. 

I settled on the Elvis (chocolate, peanut butter, bacon and banana) and Dale got the Norrlands Guld (chocolate, almond, cloudberries, and toffee). Oh yes, cupcakes make me a happy Matilda!

Check out that to go box! I told you they have good packaging. Unfortunately, on the way home the tops slid off the cakes so I didn't get a picture of just the cupcakes. But they were still delicious! If you are in Stockholm and need a cupcake fix, this is definitely the place to go!
Love Always,
Matilda